Malolotja Nature Reserve is situated in the western mountains of Swaziland. The Malolotja River rises in the east of the reserve and meanders its way through some fragile high-end bog systems before tumbling over numerous waterfalls, including Swaziland's highest waterfall, the Malolotja Falls, and cutting its way through a steep sided gorge to meet the Nkomati River, some 900 m below. Malolotja Nature Reserve is one of the most impressive mountain parks in Southern Africa. The spectacular scenery and the variety of fauna and flora makes it a prime highveld conservation area. It is the last unspoilt mountain wilderness left in Swaziland. The reserve extends over an area of 18 000 hectares in north-west Swaziland, making it the largest proclaimed protected area in the Kingdom. The range in altitude from the top of Ngwenya Mountain, Swaziland's second highest mountain (1829 m), to the deep Nkomati River Valley (640 m) accounts both for the mild temperate climate and great variety of habitats; from short grassland, to thick riverine scrub, bushveld and moist Afro-montane forest. The Malolotja River rises in the east of the reserve and meanders its way through some fragile highveld bog systems before tumbling over numerous waterfalls, including Swaziland's highest waterfall, the Malolotja Falls, and cutting its way through a steep sided gorge to meet the Nkomati River, some 900 m below. In the early 1970s the Swaziland National Trust Commission came into being and one of the first projects undertaken by the organisation was to conduct a survey of protection-worthy areas in Swaziland. One of the regions identified as a priority was the region stretching from Ngwenya Mountain in the south to Bulembu Mountain in the north. A proposal to declare the area a nature reserve was referred to the late King, His Majesty King Sobhuza II. The late King appointed Chief Bhekimpi as his eye for the project. More than eighty percent of the area was sheep grazing concession land and much of the southern area was privately owned. Findings ascertained that the area had little agricultural or stock rearing potential and King Sobhuza supported and approved the project. The families living in the area were resettled on good agricultural land adjacent to Malolotja. Over the last ten years Malolotja has been developed into one of the country's finest reserves of which the country can be justly proud.
Malolotja is one of those areas that, once visited and experienced from a hikers perspective, one will never forget and will always be the subject of conversation as far as trails are concerned. It is not an easy area to hike and hikers need to be properly equipped, have a good degree of fitness and be lead by experienced hikers who have map reading skills, qualified in First Aid, knowledge of survival techniques and have done trails in other wilderness areas such as the Drakensberg. It is relatively close to Gauteng, the distance being just over 400km, all on national tarred roads. The best way to travel to Malolotja is by way of Carolina (Mpumalanga) and then through the Oshoek border post. Travelers need to bear in mind that Passports are needed (no visa is required for RSA citizens), car registration documents, a copy of which must be obtained from the financial institution if the car is financed (this can take a few days), a RSA sticker, Swaziland road fund levy for vehicle and if applicable, trailer, obtainable at the border crossing (R50 at time of writing). South African currency is readily accepted in Swaziland and the exchange rate is on a par with the Rand. Petrol is available inside the border and is often cheaper than in RSA. The Oshoek border post is open to 10pm and maybe open to midnight over long weekends (check with AA). The office at the reserve closes at 6pm but if you have booked a campsite at the main camp, the night watchman will allow you to enter and direct you to the camping area. Once in Swaziland, follow the main highway towards Mbabane and keep a look out for the signed board to the left indicating Malolotja and Piggs Peak. Follow this road for some distance until you reach the main gate to the reserve. If you arrive after the office has closed, report to the office before you start your hike. Here you will obtain your permit and map. Backpackers will also be asked to affirm that they are carrying a small trowel for toilet use. If they don't they will be required to hire one from the reserve. The main camping ground has 15 designated sites. It has well equipped and spotlessly maintained ablutions including hot showers, basins and flush toilets. There is also a small scullery. There is a helpful staff member on duty to make sure that there is plenty of hot water available and the place is kept clean and tidy. There are braai facilities but visitors need to bring there own wood or purchase it from the small shop situated at the main gate. Along with the camping facilities, there are also several chalets for hire. A network of gravel roads is available for those wishing to see the reserve form the comfort of their cars.
Malolotja Nature Reserve is the last unspoilt mountain wilderness left in Swaziland and offers some of the finest hilltop scenery in southern Africa. The park offers 4x4 trails (which they say are rough rides through rough country) but which allow you to travel to seldom-visited parts of this Swazi reserve, like the top of Ngwenya (Crocodile) Mountain. Night drives are also offered - a fantastic way to explore this interesting terrain, particularly under the Swaziland night sky. Accommodation is available in log cabins and there is a caravan and camping site. The starting point for all backpacking routes is at the office where cars are required to be parked. Backpackers will be asked which of the 19 designated camps sites they will be occupying on which days. Hikers will also be provided with a list of average times between the different camp sites. This helps a lot with planning your route. For instance the route that we decided to take on the first day was to campsite 8 (Majolomba) via Logwaja viewsite. In most cases the paths are well defined and cairns are to be found along them showing the route. The paths do get overgrown however, between maintenance and the cairns do get dismantled by baboons in search of food. As mentioned previously, map reading skills are essential.
