Tobago Cays : SAINT VINCENT AND THE GRENADINES
The Tobago Cays are a cluster of four uninhabited islands, protected by a "horseshoe reef"and enclosing a turquoise, sand-bottomed lagoon. Tobago Cays are a national marine park of St. Vincent and the Grenadines. The name of Sipadan is simply legendary in diving circles, conjuring images of twirling tornados of barracudas and jacks, patrolling hammerhead sharks, millions of technicolored reef fish and, above all, dozens of sea turtles swimming peacefully everywhere. "Sipidan, Borneo: The waters of Indonesia meet the waters of Malaysia at the 'Ring of Fire'. Within this underwater circus lies one of the world's freshest dive sites - Borneo's Sipidan Island. Seeing 10 green and hawksbill turtles in one dive is not uncommon, nor is seeing a school of 300 barracuda and hammerheads The proximity of dives to shore allows you to gear up, swim out a few yards, and get some of the best diving of your life." As I discovered, most people go to Mabul to dive Sipadan, that great pelagic sea mount made famous by Jacques Cousteau, home to the turtle tomb, thousands of live turtles and millions of schooling pelagics. The reason they choose Mabul over Sipadan is mainly because the accommodation at Smart Diver Resort on Mabul is slightly more upmarket than that found on Sipadan, offering private en-suites, fresh (not brackish) showers and loads of hot water. If you're diving Sipadan from Mabul (only 15 minutes away by boat), then you're out for the whole day. This isn't a problem because the boats are huge with lots of room, full awnings and even shelves overhead for dry gear. Between dives, have your surface interval sitting on the famous Sipadan wharf, or perhaps,walking along the beach. Lunch is a picnic affair on the back side of Sipadan Island. After three dives, you'reback on Mabul in timefor a hot shower and a late-afternoon cup of tea or coffee, which is always accompanied by a scrumptious Asian pastry of some sort.
Tobago Cays are an archipelago comprised of five small uninhabited islands - Petit Rameau, Petit Bateau, Baradol, Petit Tobac and Jamesby - located in the Southern Grenadines. The Tobago Cays are now the key element of the Tobago Cays Marine Park, a national park and wildlife preserve run by the St.Vincent and the Grenadines government. The Tobago Cays Marine Park consists of a 1,400 acre sand-bottom lagoon which encompasses four uninhabited cays and the 4 km Horseshoe Reef. While the cays are uninhabited, they are surrounded by the three larger inhabited islands of Union Island, Mayreau and Canouan. The most extensive and well-developed coral reef complexes in St. Vincent & the Grenadines occur on shallow shelves around the windward sides of Mayreau and Union Islands and the Cays themselves. In addition, principal vegetation types include beach vegetation and dry forest. With the exception of a small mangrove in Petit Rameau and salt pond in Mayreau, there are no wetlands in the Cays. Major users of the area include: cruise ships (an estimated 50,000 visitors each year of which 10,000 visit the Cays); yachts (an estimated 3,000 yachts anchor in the lagoon each year); day charters (from nearby hotels); sport divers and snorkelers; and fishing enthusiasts. Despite being described in various sources as one of the largest remaining pristine coral reef groups in the Windward Island, there is growing evidence that this ecosystem is being affected by non-sustainable use and natural environmental impacts. Significant sources of "natural" threats to corals are storm damage and white band disease and bleaching. Key human induced impacts include: (i) overfishing attributed to both local fisher folks and visiting yachts (particularly in the use of spear guns); (ii) physical impacts associated with visiting yachts (anchor damge and running aground); (iii) snorkeling and diving; and (iv) bilge and wastewater discharge from yachts. Visitation is difficult to control due to number of boats (many of which are under an international flag) exacerbated by the absence of regular coast guard patrols.
The Cays have been declared a wildlife reserve by the government and all visitors are urged to preserve and protect this unique natural resource. No fishing, jet skis, or anchoring of dinghies allowed. Make your own contribution to the efforts by disposing properly of your debris, including the charcoal and remainders of your beach barbecue. Local youths may offer to remove your garbage for a fee but avoid this temptation, as some are known to dump it without care. Petit Rameau features a beach on the south side of the cay, as does Barabel, which lies southeast of Petit Rameau. Petit Bateau provides visitors a shaded beach to the north and another beach on its east side. This easterly beach is the best choice for beginning snorkellers as it has calm shallow water. More experienced snorkellers will be delighted by the waters surrounding Horseshoe Reef, but may find it occasionally choppy. When approaching these islands, well aided by black and white day markers, be careful not to cut corners as you may end up on a coral head. Anchor in the cut between Petit Rameau and Petit Bateau with bow and stem anchors, as the current is strong. The smallest and southernmost cay, Jamesby, features on its eastern side one of the best beaches of the group. Petit Tabac where Johnny Depp was marooned as Sparrow in Disney's blockbuster "Pirates of the Caribbean: Curse of the Black Pearl", is the most inaccessible with a narrow entrance at the southwestern tip. This crescent shaped islet is covered in coconut trees planted by the late John Caldwell (a.k.a. Johnny Coconut), formerly of Palm Island and his efforts have been continued by Glenroy Adams of Grenadines Dive, a devoted conservationist and a good choice for scuba diving in the area.
